Since Chaumet was founded on the Place Vendôme in Paris 240 years ago, nature has been an enduring source of inspiration for the prestigious French Maison. The Chaumet & Nature exhibition in Doha celebrates this timeless bond, showcasing more than 100 stunning jewels from the Maison’s collection alongside select pieces from Qatar Museums.
Since 1780, Maison Chaumet has crafted a universe filled with stars, moons and planets, coloured in the nuance of the skies and seas. Each creation embodies the essence of nature and its creatures, from those soaring across the heavens to those gliding through the depths of the oceans. At its renowned headquarters at 12 Place Vendôme, the savoir-faire Maison has, through all its eras, seamlessly melded audacity and elegance. As a true product of its time, it speaks its own vocabulary and language, while always keeping nature as its constant, beating heart. This timeless journey is showcased in the Chaumet & Nature exhibition at M7 Msheireb Downtown Doha, in collaboration with Qatar Museums.
The Chaumet & Nature exhibition spotlights more than 100 exquisite jewels from the Maison’s collections and those of Qatar Museums, in honour of the link the countries have shared since the 1970s. In total, the exhibition showcases 111 visual works exemplifying the Maison’s vast heritage.
This event marks the first time Qatar is hosting an exhibition of such magnitude. It is an adapted version of the comprehensive multi-media exhibition organised by the Maison at the Academy of Fine Arts in Paris in 2022, entitled Végétal – L’École de la beauté (Vegetal – The School of Beauty). The initial exhibition featured a diverse array of artworks, including paintings, sculptures, textiles, photography and furniture from different eras. It brought together the works of renowned artists such as Gustave Caillebotte, Eugène Delacroix, Claude Monet and Sarah Bernhardt, alongside nearly 80 jewellery pieces from Chaumet. Celebrating the beauty of nature, the exhibition was organised in collaboration with esteemed art foundations and museums in France.
Treasures of Earth
The Qatari exhibition carries the same spirit, enriched with commissioned works and collaborations between the Maison and Qatari talents. Notably, the poet Salman Bin Khalid has written a poem titled ‘Treasures of Earth’. Poetry, often referred to as the Diwan of the Arabs – meaning a collection of works by a single poet – welcomes visitors to the exhibition. The poem pays a tribute to the beauty of nature, jewellery and, above all, the elegance of the Arabic language and the world of poetry.
The Maison communicates with its visitors through poetry, which holds a central place in Arabic culture and civilisation, stretching from the Gulf to the Atlantic Ocean. Renowned Qatari artist Shouq Al Mana was also commissioned by Chaumet to create an exclusive piece for the exhibition, celebrating the rich local identity, heritage and culture. The Maison has always paid great attention to the local talents of each country it engages with and fosters connections with the creative community through commissioned artworks that are inspired by the unique culture of each nation. In 2023, in collaboration with M7, Chaumet selected artist Zainab AlShibani to design its logo in Arabic.
Building Identity
Chaumet & Nature is organised across five sections demonstrating nature as a key element of Maison’s designs: Preserving Nature, Drawing Nature, Observing Nature, Living in Nature and Diving in Nature.
The first section, Preserving Nature, showcases the inspiration of the Maison, which draws from the elements, creatures and nature in its designs, and notably the ears of wheat which have long served as a symbol of the Maison. The Maison was founded by Marie-Étienne Nitot (1750–1809) and his son, François-Regnault (1779–1853), in Paris in 1780, and quickly became a favourite of aristocrats, maintaining its prominence until the French Revolution of 1789. It later gained widespread fame when Napoléon I declared the Maison his official jeweller.
The Nitot father and son represent the founding generation, and the subsequent directors and officials of the Maison who followed in their footsteps all continue to draw inspiration from nature as the guiding compass for each new chapter. One of the timeless designs showcased in the exhibition is a tiara resembling ears of wheat, crafted from gold, silver and diamonds. It was created at Napoléon’s request in 1811. It goes without saying that the Maison’s choice of nature-inspired motifs is never arbitrary. The ears of wheat symbolise fertility, a poignant reference to the Empress Joséphine, who was unable to bear an heir for her husband, Emperor Napoléon. This tiara became a symbolic talisman, intended to bring fertility and abundance to the French Empire. Alongside historic pieces in this section, visitors can also discover the first signature of Nitot as ‘naturalist jeweller’, marking a pioneering moment in the jewellery industry.
The section also features oil paintings that reflect the era, showcasing its symbols, notable figures and characters connected to the Maison. These include paintings signed by Napoléon’s artists, including Baron Gérard’s Napoléon I in his Coronation Robes (1806) and Empress Joséphine (1808) by Antoine-Jean Gros.
The first generation established the aesthetic and visual concept that would guide the Maison throughout its journey, with its peak during the First Empire era (1804–15). The second generation, led by Jean Baptiste Fossin and his son, proved equally creative and innovative. Fossin created legendary designs inspired by the Renaissance arts of Italy and by those in France during the eighteenth century, all while staying true to the Maison’s philosophy, and continued its celebration of nature, presenting jewels imbued with a sentimental touch.
Trained by Fossin, Morel Senior and Morel Junior represented the third generation of directors. Their designs were vibrant and dynamic, blending creativity with professionalism while utilising precious metals and gemstones. During this era (1871–80), known as the Belle Époque, France experienced a flourishing of art, culture, intellectualism and literature. During this period, Joseph Chaumet (1852–1928) served as the Maison’s director and gave it his name. This period continued to feature natural flora and fauna prominently in its designs. Chaumet also introduced new pieces adorned with motifs drawn from the Maison’s heritage. Marcel Chaumet (1886–1964) succeeded his father in 1928. His designs remaining true to the Maison’s identity while incorporating his own artistic flair and sometimes venturing into abstract styles.
The 1970s marked a period of rare creative exploration for the Maison, coinciding with a transformative era known for global calls for freedom and change. Embracing this spirit, Chaumet expanded its boundaries of creativity and experimentation. Its master craftspeople created pioneering designs that redefined the norms of jewellery-making, delving deeper into the innovative use of precious stones and gemstones to create realistic and striking pieces. The adventure did not end here, as Chaumet joined the LVMH group in 1999. Chaumet’s directors remained committed to promoting the Maison’s identity as an admirer of nature in all its elements. The journey of innovation begins with the drawing of jewels and the sketches capture the essence of body gestures, emotion and precision. The illustrations are brought to life through the delicate strokes of pencil lines.
Today, Chaumet has 66,000 drawings serving as a testament to the Maison’s long-standing and enduring devotion to the beauty of nature. This commitment is evident in the Maison’s creative and distinctive collections, such as L’Épi de Blé de Chaumet, Bee and Joséphine, named after Empress Joséphine, Napoléon’s beloved wife.
Seen for the First Time
Preserving Nature traces the aesthetic and visual transformations of the Maison, influenced by the historical and artistic eras it has experienced, as well as the legacy of its directors over generations. The section showcases designs and sketches of moon-like or crescent moon necklaces (c.1890) from the Chaumet collection in Paris, alongside a head ornament crafted in 1910, from the Qatar Museums’ collection and made from platinum, gold, sapphires and diamonds. This section also features documentary photographs of prominent figures who played a significant role in shaping the cultural, artistic and social landscape of their time. Among them is Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney, the wife of American industrialist Harry Payne Whitney, depicted in a photograph wearing a tiara crafted by Chaumet in 1910, which was made specifically for her. For the first time, the audience are also able to view other historical pieces, including the Fuchsia Tiara (1919), crafted from platinum, gold and diamonds, which Chaumet created for Princess Bourbon-Parma. One of the modern pieces on display is the Vine Necklace (2023), created with gold, diamonds, spinel and sapphires.
The second section, Drawing Nature, features a video offering an in-depth look at Chaumet’s vast collection gouache drawings and sketches inspired by nature, while the third section, Observing Nature, showcases the rich symbolism of the Maison’s designs. Among other examples it includes designs based on an oak tree, which symbolises wisdom and serves as a bridge between the earth and the sky. Oak leaves and acorns have inspired numerous creative designs at Chaumet over the years, imbuing a unique aura to those who wear them. Meanwhile, the laurel is an emblem of glory, mercy and immortality, blending suppleness with movement. Its symbolism has been deeply rooted in Chaumet’s creations from the very beginning, as Napoléon himself wore a laurel crown as a statement of victory. The symbolism of the laurel continues to play a central role in the Maison’s creations, with pieces crafted from white gold and diamonds, blending both classical and modern designs.
Flowers also tell a unique story at the Maison, with floral designs evoking emotions and feelings in pieces adorned with roses, daisies and violets. One of the most significant and precious historical pieces in the exhibition is the Countess Katharina Henckel von Donnersmarck’s emerald tiara, c.1900. Crafted from platinum, gold, silver, diamonds and emeralds, it is part of Qatar Museums collection.
The fourth section in the exhibition, Living in Nature, transitions from the realm of botany to the world of animals. It showcases designs inspired by different creatures, whether real or fantastical, domestic or wild, which have long been a favoured source of inspiration for Chaumet’s jewellery. Chaumet has created a rich bestiary featuring a wide array of figures, from birds to giraffes and lions. The Maison also presents various bee designs, originally chosen by Napoléon as a symbol of determination, hard work, consistency and victory. One of the Maison’s iconic designs is the famous wing motif that Chaumet created for a two-wings tiara in 1908 for Harry Payne Whitney. Worn as both a tiara and a brooch, this versatile piece reflects the style and values of the era.
Also in this section are photographs of designs that Chaumet crafted for Qatari clients between 1975 and 1980. These were inspired by the naturalistic elements of the region’s environment and feature falcons, antelope and other animals that are native to the Arabian Peninsula, underlining the Maison’s unique interactions with the environments in which it works.
Pearl Diving
The last section, Diving in Nature, presents an immersive dive into the ocean, surrounded by a symphony of blue hues and oceanic scenography. This section highlights the deep bond between Qatar’s history and the French Maison, symbolised by the use of pearls.
Around 1890, Joseph Chaumet established a laboratory at the heart of Chaumet’s headquarters, to study and define the nature of gemstones. He understood the origins of natural pearls and what set them apart from industrial pearls, which were popular in the global market at the time, particularly those coming from Japan. He employed new scientific methods such as radiography, micrography and spectrum analysis to extend his understanding. However, even before Joseph Chaumet’s innovations, the Maison had already been adorning its creations with natural pearls. It showcased stunning Baroque pearl necklaces that elegantly drape the neck, as well as the use of pearls in pendants and tiaras. The Maison on Place Vendôme quickly became a renowned reference on pearls and emerged as a major trader in the early twentieth century. Today, Chaumet continues to incorporate pearls into its modern creations.
Qatar’s heritage is deeply rooted in the ancient art of pearl trading, which flourished from the nineteenth century until the mid-twentieth century. After this era, the lifestyle shifted from ancient pearl diving to a modern industrial era. However, the old trading houses maintained their strong connections to pearls, evolving into remarkable jewellery empires. This development ensures that pearls remain deeply embedded in the soul of Qatar. This section includes several historical photographs, including images of the Maison’s pearl laboratory, as well as its iconic Bayadère necklace (1922–24). There is also a video showcasing the meticulous restoration of this one-of-a-kind piece, a process that required patience and exceptional artistry.
This section also takes us on a historical journey through Qatar, featuring archival documents of pearl divers, traders and markets from the fourteenth to the nineteenth century. This section showcases the exclusive piece commissioned by Chaumet from Qatari artist Shouq Al Mana, celebrating Qatar’s heritage and memory through her art and public installations. Visitors to Qatar will be familiar with her artwork Egal (2023), located at Lusail Marina Promenade, which pays tribute to the country’s history and traditions. Her commissioned artwork, Altawash, featured at the Chaumet & Nature exhibition, consists of a basket made of pearls. It is accompanied by photographs of altawash, the historic term used in Qatar for the pearl traders who moved between ships during the pearl-diving expeditions. This was a profession practiced for centuries along the coasts of the Arabian Peninsula, but it gradually disappeared in the mid-twentieth century with the rise of industrial pearls from Japan. Al Mana highlights this historical profession, which is a crucial part of Qatar’s heritage and history, and pays tribute to the traders and divers who retrieved these precious stones from the depths of the sea. These same stones have inspired Chaumet throughout its history.
Chaumet & Nature runs until 19 December 2024
